Chaozhou – not your typical Cantonese city
Continuing with our Spring Festival travel guide for expats in China, today we recommend Chaozhou, a small city in South China’s Guangdong Province boasting a rich history and diverse culture.
Unlike other big cities in the province, like Guangzhou or Shenzhen, Chaozhou doesn’t have an airport. The closest is the Jieyang Chaoshan International Airport. After arriving at Jieyang, you can purchase a bus ticket for a one-hour ride to Chaozhou. Keep in mind that the ticketing office only accepts cash.
Where to stay
It would be a wise choice to stay near Paifang Street. From there, other tourist attractions are within walking distance and you also get to have a glimpse of the traditional way of life in Chaozhou by observing the residents in the neighborhood.
Take the Chaozhou Dongmen Inn for instance, which is located in two buildings built in 1936. Back when the buildings were first built, the local waterways were the primary channel for transporting cargo. Located near a port, the two buildings were both the home and storage house for a Hakka (an offshoot of the Han ethnic group) merchant family. The style of the buildings is typical to traditional Hakka homes, where the first floor is used for storage and second floor for residences. In case the first floor becomes flooded, cargo would be lifted to the second floor through a circular indoor balcony.
After 80 years, the two buildings had become rather dilapidated and were condemned. Looking to save the buildings, a Hakka businessman surnamed Ding bought them and renovated them into an inn. Ding’s great-grandfather had moved to Chaozhou for business when he was young and he also opened an inn near the port back then. Ding wanted to pass on his great-grandfather’s heritage. He researched historical materials to restore the buildings and make sure they presented an authentic experience.
Colored tiles, stained glass, wooden banisters, you can appreciate all these details while sipping a cup of hot tea, sitting in the interior courtyard and imagining stories about the inn’s past.
What to see
Paifang is a memorial archway gate. Paifang Street in Chaozhou is so named because it has 22 beautiful paifang. There is a story behind each gate, as they were built for individuals who passed different levels of the imperial exam, or keju.
From the Sui Dynasty (581-618) to Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the keju system was used to educate and select candidate officials in China’s civil service. The earliest paifang on the street dates back to 1517.
Meanwhile, along Paifang Street, you can taste various Chaozhou dishes and snacks. Check out our dining article “Relishing the flavor of South China’s Teochew cuisine.”
Guangji Bridge, built in 1171, is considered as one of the four great ancient bridges of China, the other three being Zhaozhou Bridge, Luoyang Bridge and Lugou Bridge.
Straddling the Hanjiang River, Guangji Bridge is a combination of beam bridge, arch bridge and bateau bridge, making it one of a kind in the country. A part of the bridge is connected by 18 bateau boats. During the day, people can walk across the river through the bateau bridge. Yet at night, the boats will be disconnected, and there will be a channel for ships and boats to pass by. Moreover, there are 24 distinctly styled pavilions on the bridge, giving people one more reason to take a walk through it.
Chaozhou can be a city rather different from what you might have seen in China. To take it all in, the best way is to just wander through the city and observe the unique architecture, local people’s laid back way of life and traces of the city’s history. Chaozhou won’t fail to surprise you.
Bateau boats of Guangji Bridge in Chaozhou, South China’s Guangdong Province. Photo: Bi Mengying/GT
